The common perception is that driving a car causes the most wear and tear. For the most part that is true. But regardless of whether it’s a sedan, an SUV, an antique roadster, or high-performance muscle car, a lot can go wrong with auto storage if it’s just sitting in a garage or car storage facility for weeks or months at a time.

The facts are that long-term, untended storage of a car – including storage for antique cars – can cause damage to the vehicle when it is simply sitting still. Batteries lose their charge from disuse. Gasoline degrades when the fuel oxidizes (varnish-like deposits form and clog fuel lines and injectors). Lubrication isn’t moving among engine components, allowing some areas to dry up and be unlubricated when the car is restarted; in a related fashion, moisture can get into some components leading to rusting while seals and gaskets can dry out, leading to fluid leaks. Left in one spot (which might happen with some discount auto storage) the tires can flatten and, when reinflated, create a slight bump in the ride. If the vehicle is exposed to rodents and other invasive pests, they might find their way in and, as rodents do, nest and chew on wires.

Where storage for cars makes more sense

So what if you need to store your car for an extended period of time? Where and how is it done with minimal risk to the vehicle?

First and foremost, the storage location for new as well as vintage cars should be out of the elements – protected from sunlight, moisture, and extreme (hot and cold) temperatures. A car cover in an outdoors environment is less than ideal but better than no cover at all. Some facilities enable affordable car storage, but it’s smartest to check for their temperature controls if the season can be too hot or too cold.

Preparation: Things to do to your car when putting it into storage

Whether you try this on your own or lean into professional auto storage, several things can be done to mitigate deterioration of a vehicle when left unused for a month or more:

Battery maintainer or trickle chargers – these can keep the battery charged even when the car is standing still. If the car is electric (EV), charge the battery to about 50 percent. Some EVs can be started and recharged remotely.

Start the car every couple of weeks – if possible, either yourself or a car caretaker can start the engine and let it run for 10 or more minutes.

Add a fuel stabilizer – In the gas tank, stabilizers prevent gasoline degradation.

Tire inflation – Just make sure the tires are at the recommended pressure before leaving the car parked for a month or so. But if it’s for a longer period of time (hello, snowbirds), overinflate the tires just a bit. If you or someone else starts the car every couple of weeks, move it a foot or so to change where it is in contact with the floor. Another tactic is to place the car on rigid jack stands (not hydraulics, which can fail).

Cover the tailpipe and air intake openings – Using aluminum foil or fabric, this will discourage insects from turning your car into their new home. This is where professionals at storage for antique cars know what they’re doing because these features are different from those of modern vehicles.

Oil change and lubrication – Dirty oil left in the car can lead to corrosion. Lubricating trunk handles, door handles and the hood hinge with light-grade oil before storage is recommended.

Do not engage the parking brake – If left in the “up” (engaged) position, a handbrake can cause the brake pads to adhere to the rotors or drums, which can cause wear on the brake components and diminish their performance. If moisture is in the mechanism, it can also cause rust that then causes noise or vibration when the car is later in operation.

You want to return to your vehicle, whether be after a long winter or extended trip, being able to drive it out of storage and back into service. Check with your auto storage facility to see if they take these steps. It will make it more likely that car will run just fine the minute you return.